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Showing posts with label fast stock myvi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fast stock myvi. Show all posts

Sunday, February 16, 2014

Car Mods: 1st Gen Perodua Myvi Tuning Part V - Lightweight Crankshaft Pulley and some Iridium

6:57 AM 0
Okay, let's return to some 1st Generation Perodua Myvi tuning. The 2010 car is now slightly over 35,000km old and still running as it should. It just undergoes regular oil changes and if you note from the earlier posts, the car has had some suspension, brakes and an air filter / cold air intake mod.

The Myvi technically stops faster, corners better and is a little more refined due to the strut bar / rear beam axle anti-roll bar which allows the suspension to be less susceptible to flex. And with those mods, a little more performance from the engine would be nice. So I've basically got a lightweight aluminium crankshaft pulley installed (the polished thingy to the right of the brakes).


As mentioned in my earlier post where I fixed such a crankshaft pulley to the Proton Wira which I own, it basically releases the power that was lost from the heavy standard crankshaft pulley. The lightweight aluminium pulley decreases rotational mass making the engine rev faster than before. It basically shifts the power band a little lower and is actually very good to have in an automatic car (albeit one that weighs slightly under 1000kg). This is because the 4 speed automatic's gearing has only 4 speeds it is spaced out a little and there could be a gap in the powerband that is (slightly) corrected by the pulley. As the revs come in quicker, the powerband feels smoother.

The lightweight pulley is about a kilogram lighter. Testing on a dyno has basically shown that with such a pully the 1.3liter Myvi would only gain 1.5 or so bhp. Good enough as what is more important is the shift in powerband as the power if now coming in lower in the rev range. You feel more engine response and urge at least 500rpm lower than before. This means that the car accelerates faster. No, not Lancer Evolution fast...just faster than before okay. Don't be chasing down Honda Type-Rs after this upgrade.

And then you need better spark plugs. Iridium spark plugs are a good replacement for the stock plugs. Firstly, whilst they are more expensive, around RM180-200 per set, they last longer than regular spark plugs. But do not believe the story that these plugs last over 60,000km. They actually lose power quite rapidly after 35,000km. I would suggest using them for about 30,000km before throwing them away for another set.

Secondly, the iridium plugs have a stronger spark, hence you would benefit from better combustion which gives you better performance (acceleration) and fuel economy (from the better conbustion). The 2010 Perodua Myvi (facelifted 1st gen variant and above uses a smaller Iridium plug compared to the pre-facelifted versions) is fitted with Denso Iridium plugs IXU22 if you are curious. You could use NGKs too but from experience, the Denso plugs are slightly punchier. That's just a personal feeling (what the butt-dyno says so don't take my word for it). 

And so the little Myvi gets to accelerate even faster than before. From the mid-12seconds it is now at least in the mid-10secs from 0-100km/h. And it has a better mid-range too which helps overtaking slightly. Trips to Muar and Kuantan ( pictured there with someone else's Myvi) feel slightly better in a Perodua Myvi that stops, acclerates and cruises better than what was offered by Perodua in the first place. Again, this was not over-done, just enough to make the car drive better. Remember, it isn't a sports car. IT REALLY ISN'T A SPORTS CAR no matter how large the tyres are, how low you lower it and how noisy the exhaust is. No, changing the seats to Recaros are just wasting money. A Myvi is a small super mini. 

So this was done to make an econo-box slightly better to drive. After all, the car is still crashy over bumps and humps, runs on tiny tyres but is a great classless car. By classless in the Malaysian sense this means that a heck of a lot of people own Myvis. From multi-millionaires to regular Janes and Joes. And these mods make it a little better for petrolheads to drive. Probably putting a smile to some faces. Not a large one, just a little smirk. In car expensive Malaysia, petrolheads should be allowed to get their kicks in any way possible. 

Hope this article helps. 
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Saturday, August 11, 2012

Car Mods: 1st Gen Perodua Myvi Tuning Part III - The Brake Upgrade

11:15 AM 0
This article has taken its sweet time hasn't it? One reason why this has taken so long is that I decided to thoroughly sort the braking issue completely before I come to any conclusion. And the little Perodua Myvi 1.3 that the Missus uses now has really, really, really good brakes.

Prior to this the Pink Myvi had brakes. Or some semblance of Brakes in my opinion. It would stop at speeds below 80km/h but at the Malaysian speed limit of 110km/h, the Myvi would basically take its sweet time in trying to slow down. Those that tried jamming its brakes at speeds higher than this would find out that it has terrible response time due to a whole lot of dead travel (this means that the brake pedal travels a whole lot before achieving some bite) and when it does, it just takes its time in slowing down. This is quite bad if you want to come to a dead stop as soon as possible. So with dead travel and lack of bite, the Myvi is actually a terrible car to drive fast. Even the Missus agreed with this statement. Hence the need for an upgrade.

In fact there could have been a need to upgrade the whole car into a Mazda 3, a Ford Fiesta or even a Suzuki Swift but this path wasn't chosen due to the fact that we chose a Myvi because the Missus' driving skills were totally rusty and the Myvi was the most affordable small car to fix small knocks and dings whilst she improves her driving. And now, almost two years down the road, she seems pretty adept in driving around town. But one cannot just sell off the car right now as it wouldn't be economically prudent as a car bought under hire purchase to sell the car less than halfway through the loan arrangement. One would need to settle at least half the term if not one would end up paying the bank for the differential sum. And it does give Yours Truly an excuse to do lots of mods on Malaysia's favourite hatchback. Sensible mods, mind you.

And so to the brakes.

I did some research on the brakes and came up to the conclusion that Perodua uses the worst sort of front brake pads that one can possibly imagine. I suppose the material used, aside from being dirt cheap, must be made from something that isn't abrasive or that has friction. Brake pads need friction to generate grip and if it does not grip the discs, a lack of braking power happens. And so a change of pads were in order. I was recommended a set made by IMP, the chaps who sell the IMPROVE brand of shock absorbers. Maybe Perodua should get better suppliers.

more after the jump!



Secondly, the stock Perodua Myvi discs are purportedly weak too. According to some parts suppliers the front discs (rears are drums) tend to warp after 20,000km of use. This did not happen to our Myvi but since I was doing this write-up, I may as well get a new set of brake rotors (discs). And the cross drilled, slotted and ventilated rotors from AR Racing were chosen. It looks good and would actually help deglazing the pads every time the brakes are used (in anger). Do not ask me who are AR Racing. Aside from these discs, I don't know what else they produce. The discs were recommended by a veteran parts supplier and I took his word for it. Isn't that usually the case?


Now after the two upgrades mentioned above the brakes were so much better than before. There was bite when you wanted it. Prior to this if you did an emergency brake the Myvi would just cruise to a halt but with this upgrade, the Myvi would actually dip its front end forward due to increased bite from the brakes. Braking from 110km/h to 80km/h must have been cut in half as you could actually feel the seatbelts bite into your shoulder. And the noise from slotted and drilled disc rotors is interesting too. Like a generator powering down, going 'hmmmmmmmmm'. Like the Death Star before blasting a planet to smithereens. This mod actually adds from character missing from the Myvi too.

The new braided brake hoses vs the stock ones below


One problem that is still lacking is the brakes still suffer from dead travel. The new pads and brake disc rotors do not solve this problem. I was then recommended to try out IMP's new triple layer braided brake hoses. Steel braided brake hoses are nothing new to those how venture into the realm of motorsports. Most track cars end up having this as an upgrade for two reasons - one is that the steel casing does not allow the brake fluid to expand sideways (as the rubber hosing is soft and flexible) when it gets hot due to repeated hard braking and secondly, it adds to brake feel as like before, it only allows the fluid to travel in one direction instead of trying to expand everywhere else. Of course, one needs to buy good brake hoses as sometimes, while steel braided hoses are good, the joints where it screws to the brakes and piping (to the servo) may give way. The IMP hoses seem pretty solid and I was recommended to give it a shot. Do note that none of these mods were given to me for free.  I bought all of the upgrades with my own pocket money. I have to say that I'm extremely happy they work.


And what happened was that the Myvi's terrible brake feel and dead travel was almost gone. There was very little dead travel and the brakes are easier to modulate. You could feel the brakes already working as soon as you start pressing on the pedal.

These mods are essential to most Myvi owners who want to drive their cars fast. Note that there is a saying that very good brakes can add as much as 20hp to a car on the track. Why so? It's because that you can brake later and deeper into a corner. Imagine if you are in a car that has better brakes and another similar car in lesser brakes. You can actually brake, for example 10meters later than the other car. This means that if you're travelling at 100km/h into the corner, you're still travelling at 100km/h for another 10meters over the other car whereas the car has already slowed down to, say 80km/h by then. Imagine doing this over 10 laps. You'd be pretty much ahead of the similarly powered but lesser braked car.

So there you have it folks. The total and very effective, non-overdosed (i.e no need to change to oversized calipers) brake upgrade for the Myvi. I managed to drive to Ipoh and back via the highway and also the non-tolled roads. The brakes were wonderful on the highway and wonderful on the narrower and more challenging Federal roads. The stopping power is there, the brakes bite more immediate that before and there is more feel in them too. What more can anyone ask? The three items, brake pads, disc rotors and hoses cost somewhere in the region of RM800.00 without labour. Very affordable and very effective. And it looks pretty standard under the stock Myvi wheels.

Now that the brakes are settled, next comes more performance mods. But don't rush me. Perfection takes time.

Links to Parts I and II can be found here
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Friday, June 29, 2012

More Perodua Myvi 1.3 Tuning On The Way....

4:08 PM 0
Those that follow this blog via Facebook would have seen the picture above two weeks ago. So technically one should click on the 'Like' button if one wants to see new stuff slightly ahead of time.

Stay tuned people. More 1st Generation Myvi tuning coming up. Anyway, part 1 is here. Part 2 is here for those who are lazy to search through the whole blog.
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Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Car Mods: 1st Gen Perodua Myvi Mod Tips Part II

8:49 AM 0
And to start off the month of February we take another look at what can be done to one of the most common car in Malaysia - the Perodua Myvi. Note that if you owned one or intend to own one, you would be similar to a whole lot of Malaysians who own different variants of it (probably hundreds of thousand people including yours truly) and there is nothing really unique about it even if you spend thousands of Ringgit on it. So what you need to do is make it more drive-able instead of focusing too much on cosmetics. That's what I would do to a car that is really common - a nice compact supermini, with decent packaging and ample poke for the highways (but again I state, its no sports car).

So aside from stating the obvious above, what should you do to improve its driveability? Let's start with more affordable mods, this time to the induction system of the car. Note that this basic mods also apply to the latest, 2nd generation Myvi too.

One simple mod that in my opinion is necessary is to the air-box entrance of the Myvi. The thing about the stock car is that the inlet tube basically sits at the right side of the engine bay right behind the headlights. There is no direct cold air feed to it and it basically sucks up hot air from the engine bay. Hot air is less dense that cold air and this means that the Myvi will actually suck in less air on a hot day or during traffic jams than on a cold day. And even on a cooler day, it would still suck up hot air that resonates from the engine as it gets its air from inside the engine bay. Get it?

So what it really needs is something to shield the intake from hot air or something to direct cold air to the intake. I have decided to feed the intake with cold air by using a flexible plastic hose (which you can buy at most performance parts shops in the Klang Valley) that I simply made fit (not a proper fit) one end around the original Myvi intake tube and adjusted and put the other end through the hole found at the right side of the engine bay (which leads to the right fender of the car). This tube is slightly directed deep and slightly low into the fender. Not too low as you may drive through floods and whatnot.

This simple tube allows the air intake to suck air from an area that is cooler than the engine bay. I chose to use just the plastic flexible length hose instead of with the alloy ends for the stealth look as I didn't want to mount the intake to the bumper. Note that because of this there is no 'ram-air' effect but I do not think that such a thing is necessary for a car like this. It isn't a track car and if you look at the standard air-box, which is located transversely but the throttle body is located vertically and facing downwards, ram-air would not help by much.

So does it work? I honestly don't actually know but what I can say is that it does feel very slightly more preppy during when accelerating through heavy traffic. It still doesn't feel like driving on a cold rainy day, but it is slightly better nonetheless.

Now since we are at the intake section, the next mod that you can do without spending a whole lot of cash is a drop in or replacement air filter upgrade. Six clips will open the air-box and you can get your hands on the stock air-filter. I chose a UTR washable replacement air filter to replace it. The reason I chose this over the venerable K&N air filter was that it is cheap. It costs half as much as the K&N and works just as well - 1bhp increase to the Myvi.

This figure is according to my friendly neighbourhood parts supplier - Mr Tee of Sykt Multi Industries, located at Paramount Gardens, PJ. How he got such figures is that some of his customers have too much time and a lot of money as they will dyno their rides after every little 'upgrade'. He however adds that the K&N will actually last longer than the UTR filter as that really lasts over 5 years whereas the UTR may give up the ghost in 3years or so. You pay for quality. Remember this. I on the other hand have too many hobbies (shoes, watches, bicycles, cars, travelling etc etc...the list is endless), hence me being cheap when it comes to modding the Myvi. At least you readers get to find out whether the cheaper parts work or don't. In this case it does.

Throttle response is slightly better when you first drop it in but after a day of driving you won't feel any difference. This plainly shows that 1 measly bhp will not get you all excited for long. But at least you don't have to change the air filter often. So there you have it. Another two affordable mods for one of the most common car owned around these parts.

What's next you may ask? I'd have to say brakes. The stock brakes actually suck big time. A full stop from 120km/h takes too long a distance. Trust me. And anytime I see a Myvi going more than 120km/h I worry about them.  In the Myvi you cannot SLOW DOWN quickly enough at speeds in excess of 120km/h. If you tell me your Myvi can reach 180km/h, I believe you. But can you stop properly at 180km/h? You actually cannot. Trust me on this.

On that bombshell we end this article. The next step for the Myvi is upgrading the braking system before we go to more power upgrades.

Note: You can click here for the first part of this series.
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Friday, September 30, 2011

Car Mods: 1st Gen Perodua Myvi Mod Tips

9:49 AM 0
I suppose this article is a tad bit late as Perodua has already launched the second generation Myvi. But then again, I have news for you. There is actually no difference betweeen the old 1st generation Myvi 1.3 and the new Myvi 1.3 beneath the new bodyshell, new floating type dashboard and the electrically assisted power steering that supposedly helps the engine make 4 more horses (quite true, but slightly off as the Myvi actually came with an improved cylinder head when it was facelifted – giving more torque lower down and one or two horses but this was not mentioned at all. Why? Who knows.) I should know as my mother in law just bought one and I don't seem to think that there is a big difference compared to the pink one pictured herein after a hard drive up to Genting Sempah using the old Bentong Road (lots of body roll, lots of holding on to the steering wheel for support).

Anyway, you now have a 1st generation 1.3 Myvi from 2005- mid2011. How do you improve the performance of a Myvi? You sell it and buy yourself a Proton Inspira 2.0. No? You're stuck with it for the next five years at the very least because you took a nine year loan that only breaks even in four and a half years? Okay. Aside from being suicidal as you're stuck with a tall, skinny tyred town car for the next five or so years your options are limitless. Remember, this is Malaysia. Everything that you want to do to it can be done. The only thing that would limit you is money. The lack of it.

But seriously folks, you could plonk in a Daihatsu Boon X4 turbocharged 1.0liter engine, a YRV 1.3liter turbocharged engine or whatever engine that floats your boat. Or car. Provided that the Road Transport Department agrees with your choice that is.

But if you aren't interested in going through all the hassle of changing engines or you think that you need a little bit extra and not the full monty, you do things bit by bit and a little at a time. So the question that begs to be asked would be what is the first item, or two, that you need to do to make your Perodua Myvi a little bit better to drive?

It isn't more power actually. The car is pretty nippy as it is. In my earlier article about the pink coloured Myvi 1.3 EZ automatic I already mentioned that it is a decent performer at the traffic lights, in and about traffic and can easily cruise the Malaysian highways at 120km/h. I have seen a YouTube video of some unlucky sods in a JDM Impreza WRX STI tailing a Myvi at about 180km/h and was then left slightly behind by it. This was because the Myvi did not come with a speedcut like most Japanese Domestic Market cars do. If I was the guys in the STI, I wouldn't have even uploaded that clip on YouTube. An STI humiliated by a Myvi. Albeit a manual version.

So where was I? Ah, the first items that you could get for your Myvi. Well, the first truly important item you should get for your Myvi are original Perodua aluminium pedal covers. Stock Myvi pedals are really crap. The accelerator pedal is bare metal which is painted black. The brake pedal is rubber pad covered. Why Perodua cannot come up with a non-slip cover for the accelerator pedal is beyond me. It is because of this that you should absolutely get the aluminium pedal covers during your first or second service at the Perodua service center. You could get aftermarket ones, but these are original optional equipment. You cannot go wrong with the size and fit. And it makes the interior look better too.

No. It does not add 5bhp. It just makes the cabin feel a better place to be in. All for a price of RM50-60.00.

The next step is actually the more important bit. One that improves the Myvi a whole lot. You see, the Myvi is rubbish through the bends. It does not like bends a whole lot. This is basically down to the tall and not so rigid body as well as really skinny and tall 175/65/14 tyres.

Some would think that the wheels are the first you should upgrade. You could go and upgrade to 15, 16 or 17 inch wheels and tyres but you would technically add unsprung weight to the car. Unsprung weight and increased rolling resistance do not help a tiny 1.3liter car. Notice that drag cars do not use huge wheels, but small, balloon-like tyres to keep the inertia low and grip high. Yes. The magic isn't in 20inch wheels for race cars. Also note that race cars are seldom seen in sizes other than 17 or 18 inch even when there are 20,21 inch wheel combos out there. So what does the Myvi need then to improve its handling? You need to fix the chassis first this time around.

The Perodua Myvi of 2005 to mid 2011 is a flimsy car. If you rode it over speed bumps a little faster than usual the whole dashboard would feel like a bomb exploded in it. If you graduated from a Perodua Kancil you'd think all cars did this. They don't okay? It's called scuttle shake and not many cars in this era have it. The only reason a car like this would feel like this is the fact that its structure, or monocoque chassis is not rigid. It does not have to be Mercedes Benz rigid but there should be some sense of solidity when a car rides across bumpy surfaces. A car also needs a rigid chassis so that important items like lower arms, shock absorbers have a solid place to sit on and not flex. This flex means that there is slack in the handling, and slack means a terrible handling and even grip.

This is why I did not feel confident when taking a long sweeping corner at 100km/h on a stretch of highway in KL. The car felt like it was floaty and vague through the corner. It also required me to concentrate a tad bit while taking the corner. It does not mean that the Myvi cannot take a corner at speeds higher than 100km/h. It can. But it requires more focus, more concentration and more care to do so than you would in even a Proton Persona. Some people wouldn't even notice such feedback. Which is the actual reason why you see them beating WRX STIs on the highways. The thing about me is that I do notice little traits that cars like these have and in the Myvi, it unnerves me. If I need to think too much through a corner, this means I am trying too hard. And it this floaty and vague nature of the Myvi that urgently needs correcting before any other mods that need to be done.

The cure is quite simple. A front suspension strut brace/bar. I got the car an Ultra Racing 2 point strut bar in the Myvi and a lot changed. The car felt planted through the same sweeping corner at 100km/h and over speed bumps things felt better. The dashboard didn't feel like exploding and somehow the whole car felt more planted nearly everywhere. This little mod, costing a bit over RM100.00 actually made the Myvi a whole lot better to drive and allow it to corner about 10km/h faster than before without the driver actually trying too hard. And as such, I have to state that this is the most important mod for a 1st generation Myvi, bar none.

So there you have it. Two basic mods. Both extremely important for the 1st gen Myvi. But I somehow sense that if you did the same to the new Myvi, you'd get the same results. 

Note: This could be the first in a series of articles featuring our long term cars. 
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Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Let Me Answer Some of The Web Queries This Site is Getting.....Part II

5:34 AM 0
It is almost March of 2011 and I believe that after some thought (less than 30 seconds worth) it is time for another round of answering some of the web queries this site is getting. And the basic rule of this question and answer session is simple: I will answer them like this previous posting (if you can't find the answer in this blog). But if the answer does not help you then please do not hesitate to ask someone else as this is done for free without a fee.

The first web query that intrigued me was this: “Old Proton Saga 1.5 R3”

Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha.........hahahahahahahhahahahahaha.....Even R3 would stay the heck away from this car. The car was already a million years old when R3 was formed. Why humiliate themselves by actually working on such a car? Why do you hope so much that your heap of 1980s Mitsu is worth getting Proton's tuning arm which was set up a good 16 to 17 years after the car first came out (even if it was still in production at the time) when they had a 1990s Mitsubishi Colt (Proton Satria) to work on? 

Click here to find out what I think about an old Saga and if you read between the lines you'd know why R3 didn't come up with one.

I know. Reality bites, and it isn't my fault.

Next question: “Myvi is fast stock”

Faster than what? A Ferrari F355 in a traffic jam? A killer whale that has been beached? A mosquito? It is faster than the 1985 Proton Saga 1.3 Orion engine that has never ever been overhauled and smoking like crazy while being driven by the Pakcik googling for the R3 Saga above.

Okay, on a serious note. It is pretty nippy in city traffic. It does 0-100km/h in about 13seconds (auto) and would easily keep up with traffic. It may lack the brakes and grip for really fast stuff but in town, it is nimble, hence decently quick on its feet. This is due to the fact that it weighs less than 1000kg (940-950kg) so it has decent power to weight ratio even with that 84bhp 1.3 engine.

And then you have this.....“Syphilis vs Teana”

One is big, one is small...if you buy either one you're the loser. One is a venereal disease, one looks like the venereal disease but is larger. It is as bland as the other. Buy yourself a Mazda 6.

And lastly “What rims fit on a Wira SE?”

22inch rims with 335/20 zr22 Advan Neova AD08.








But seriously, any rim with the PCD of a Hundred would fit it up to 17inches running 215/40/17 tires (don't use baloon tires – what's the point? You're on tarmac, not in a palm oil estate). But if the offset is wrong, then you will notice that the rear wheels scrub the wheel arches. And please do not get staggered rims for a Wira, it is Front Wheel Drive. You do not need to tell people that you need more grip at the rear by having that wider rear look. Your car is not Jlo and you don't need that wider rear end. 

There....I HAVE done a public service to you guys haven't I? 
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